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Located in the far north-west, the province of A Coruña is a land of treasure, with its two brightest city jewels being the capital, A (or La) Coruña, an energetic and exciting city, becoming more well-known partly because of its football team, Deportivo; and Santiago de Compostela, inland to the south, rich in culture and history largely thanks to the 'legend' of St James and the Pilgrims' Routes converging onto the city. A Coruña also has a fascinating and totally unspoilt coastline - the Costa da Morte or Coast of Death - being the prime example.
Santiago de Compostela possesses a mystical beauty rarely matched in Spain, and not surprisingly the medieval city has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The name of the city refers to Saint James (Santiago), the Apostle who supposedly travelled here to convert people to Christianity. He returned to Palestine in the year 44 A.D. but was taken prisoner by Herodes Agrippa, tortured and killed. During the night his body was stolen by disciples of Jacob, who placed it in a sarcophagus of marble on a small boat. Legend has it that the boat was blown by the winds all the way to north-west Spain and into the port of the Roman town of Iria Flavia. James was buried secretly in a wood.
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Almost eight hundred years later, in 813, a hermit, Pelayo, was guided to the wood by a shining star (Campus Stellae, or field of the stars, is the origin of Compostela.) On receiving notice of this, Bishop Teodomiro, ordered an investigation, and the Apostle's tomb was 'discovered'. King Alfonso II declared Saint James the patron of his empire and a chapel was built here. Following this many miracles were reported, the Apostle was even said to have fought alongside King Ramiro I in the decisive battle against the Moors. As news of the miracles spread more and more pilgrims flocked to Santiago, founding the now world-famous Camino de Santiago. The original chapel was then converted into the now splendid cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.
In 12th and 13th century Santiago de Compostela became increasingly important, until Pope Alexander III declared it a Holy Town, third only to Rome and Jerusalem. Later Pope Calixto II declared that pilgrims who went to Santiago in a Holy Year would be absolved of all sins. The Holy Year or Xacobeo is celebrated every time the Apostle's day, July 25th, falls on a Sunday.
Any traveller lucky enough to be here around the 25th of July will long remember the celebrations of St James's day.
To pilgrims and visitors alike, the city is an unforgettable experience. With its towering Cathedral, golden granite buildings tempered by moss, lichens and grasses growing on the facades, Santiago has a feel unlike all other Spanish cities. Given the grandness, it is only a small city, and the surrounding countryside seems a mere stroll away, but after all that walking to get here, relax and unwind in one of the city's fine hotels, the star being the Parador. |
The presence of the university ensures that there is plenty to enjoy in the evening, although the majority of the bars are down in the modern part of the city. If your particular interest is the food, the covered market in the south-east of the old quarter provides the opportunity to purchase the excellent local products.
Heading north to A Coruña, this extremely engaging and pleasant city surprises in every way. An authentically seafaring city - a port for over 2.000 years its close relationship with the ocean has been a constant presence in its history, art, legends and traditions, which combine perfectly with today's modern and cosmopolitan city.
The Tower of Hercules, the oldest European working lighthouse is the great landmark of a city which offers us panoramic views towards the merciless Atlantic. The tower is to be found in the Celtic Park, containing an open-air museum of sculpture. Special mention must also be made of the fishermen's houses and their covered balconies, from which the city has earned its name as "the City of Glass".
The city's heroine, María Pita, has a square named after her in which can be found the City Hall. Nearby, The Old City, with its beautiful churches, pretty parks and squares, constitutes the historic centre of A Coruña. A stone's throw away is a castle, located on the tiny island of San Anton, housing the local archaeological museum.
For those looking for nightlife, there are plenty of bars just behind the spectacularly long sea promenade, and The Rosalìa Theatre, where you may be lucky enough to hear the Galician Symphony Orchestra. The House of Mankind, the Aquarium finisterrae or the Science Museum offer alternative diversions. Coruña has also recently become known in Europe due to the exploits of its football team, champions of the Spanish League in 2001. If you're in town on match day, the stadium of Riazor is home to most of the city, Deportivo La Coruña.
The coastline of A Coruña is wild and challenging, particularly along the Costa da Morte, so-named due to the countless wrecks in past centuries. There is even a Cementerio de Los Ingleses, near to the spot where an English ship, The Serpent, foundered on the rocks. There have also been numerous deaths among the percebeiros, the brave men who collect the tasty percebes, large edible barnacles which grow on the rocks near the surf. Almost completely unspoilt due to its relative inaccessibility, the views along the rugged cliffs are breath taking. You are quite likely to find yourself alone if you venture down to the bleached white beaches but be prepared for a shock if you brave the chilly water!
Stunning sandy beaches and river-mouths, around which many towns have developed, interrupt the craggy coastline of this fascinating and singular land. |
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